FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

What kind of pond should I build?

The answer to this question will influence all other questions. Basically we build three kinds of ponds:

Water Gardens       A water garden is a pond that will most likely contain plants and fish. It may be small, for example a 4’ x 6’ pond that is 18” deep, or it may be a large pond that is 25’ x 25’ and 2’ to 4’ deep. It may also include fountains and statuaries or perhaps a stream that runs from a waterfall to the main pond body.
Koi Ponds               Koi ponds are built specifically for the hobbyist who wants to raise a large number of fish and their construction is different from a water garden. The sides of a koi pond should be straight and the pond should be deep. Generally no rocks are used and the liner will be exposed. Extra filtration is needed for this kind of pond and it usually will not contain plants as koi love to eat water plants.
Moving Water        Some customers may want to hear and see water, but do not want the additional maintenance that may be associated with a pond that has plants and fish. A pondless water feature such as a fountain, waterfall or stream whose water disappears into the ground, can be turned off at night or when the owner leaves town. Not only does it save energy, there is also no worry of algae or safety issues with small children around.


What style of pond should I build?

What is your style? Is your home and lifestyle formal or casual? If you seek a formal look, then a geometric shape is best. Cut stones, bricks, or even tile may be used for a more formal appearance. This style of pond is normally made with mortar and concrete.

If you want a casual look, the pond can be shaped more freely and can be fitted into its surroundings for a more natural look. Moss boulders and other stones that are dry set will complete the picture.


Where should I put my pond?

Location is crucial for the enjoyment and maintenance of the pond. We always recommend the pond be as close to the viewing area as possible. Often, there is one room where the owners will spend a lot of time and the pond and/or waterfall should be visible from there. The moving water makes a wonderful sound, the fish are fun to watch and the water plants that sway with the breeze or produce colorful blooms are great to have nearby. If the pond is placed in a far corner of the yard, chances are the owners will not enjoy it as much and maintenance may be forgotten.

Select a level area (free from underground utilities or cables) that receives good sunlight. Most lilies do best with 6 to 8 hours of sunlight a day. Never locate a pond in the lowest area of your yard as that could spell disaster with runoff water finding its way into the pond. Runoff could contain fertilizers and excess dirt that could kill your fish and upset the ecosystem you’ve worked so hard to create.

Do not place your pond near large trees or shrubs that will shade your pond all day, drop a lot of leaves into the water or grow roots that could puncture your liner. As leaves sink and decay they can cause havoc with your pond’s chemical balance. Try to stay away from pine, citrus and crepe myrtle trees as they tend to drop foliage year-round. Oak leaves, acorns and pine needles all contain tannins that will leach into and discolor the water, and may also harm your fish. Some shrubs to avoid are mountain laurels, azaleas, and rhododendrons, all of which have foliage that can be toxic to fish.

How big should my pond be?

As large as your yard and budget will allow, as larger ponds are less costly per gallon and require less maintenance. They are more stable ecologically, safer for fish and hold more lilies and other plants. We encourage new pond owners not to start out too small as the biggest complaint we hear is that they wish they had made their pond bigger.

What kind of liner should I use…preformed or flexible?

Most often the flexible liners are less expensive and more forgiving, i.e. more adaptable to different sizes, depths and site conditions. Preforms sometimes work better as formal ponds, indoors or inside decks, but they are not easier to install. Preforms are also more difficult to filter or skim and are usually too shallow to overwinter fish well. Remember, the smaller the pond the more quickly it heats up and cools down which can adversely affect fish and plants that prefer a more stable environment.

How much work is it to maintain a pond?

That depends on your pond size and type. In general, larger ponds are less work as they are more stable and take longer to get dirty. Also well-filtered ponds with a skimmer and a biological filter stay cleaner, with the filters (rather than the pond owner) doing the pond maintenance. Ten minutes per week is average for general maintenance, except for when starting up the pond in the spring or shutting it down if desired for a long, freezing winter.

How deep does the pond have to be?

Typical depths vary from about 18” to 36” for water gardens and 3’ to 6’ deep for koi ponds. Check local codes for depth allowances and any fencing requirements. Ponds for plants only and maybe a few small fish are better shallower as they are safer, easier to clean and plants need sunlight which deeper koi ponds inhibit. Most lilies like to be placed at about the 2’ depth while marginal plants are happier at 1’ or less.

Do I have to add fish and if so…how many?

No, you don’t have to add fish but they do eat mosquitoes and are recommended. They are very easy to care for, help eat pond algae and can be trained to eat out of your hand. They add color and personality to any pond. Be careful not to buy too many or let them outgrow the size of your pond or the filter system. The rule of thumb is one inch of fish per square foot of surface area. Example: a 10’X10’ pond with 100 square feet of surface could therefore support about 20 five inch fish. Koi ponds with extensive additional filtration can usually be stocked with much higher fish loads. Just remember that fish grow, but filters don’t.